Wednesday, April 30, 2008

OK ESN:0-7341800

This thing might be getting a lot of use soon. I am lost (in a good way) in Bolivia, Chile, Argentina or Paraguay
Nearest Location: , Moab, UT, US
Distance: 0 km(s)
Time:05/01/2008 05:56:27 (GMT),-109.5475&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Sunday, April 27, 2008



Saturday, April 26, 2008

I heart Natalia

Before I get to that just a few things.

Steak and ice cream for lunch today. In a mall food court no less.

Steak and ice cream for dinner today as well.

Yesterday I did something I’ve never done before. Snapped the shaft of a golf club on purpose. Figured it was cheaper to re-shaft my wedge when I get home than it would be to buy an new one. Not as easy to do as I would have thought. Took a few smacks across the knee to make it happen.

I’m all packed and ready to go. So why do I heart Natalia? I have 2 companies in Ushuaia still working on shipping quotes (I’ll let them know on Monday that I’m home) going on 4 weeks. Another one working in Chile going on 5 weeks. Or is it 6? Natalia first emailed me on Monday in response to my email Sunday night. I loaded my truck in the container Friday afternoon. Less than 5 days. She, along with her co-workers, Matias and Marcelo combined to make miracles happen. Of course they are nowhere near as cute as she is. Yeah ‘miracle’ might be a bit of an exaggeration but after the frustration of the last few weeks it is how I feel. How about I just say they kick ass. I am just still astounded at how simple the process was here and so difficult everywhere else. I think I stumbled upon a gem of a company and have to thank Kevin and Erin for putting me in touch with them. Sea freight is not even their normal mode of business, they are an airfreight company. That confuses me even more about why this process is so hard for other companies to figure out. Not only did they get me in a container with a ship date for early next week (which means no dock storage charges) but they also made it possible for me to pay the freight upon receipt of my truck in Long Beach. The companies in Ushuaia were estimating almost $6k due upfront. (Spend some time thinking about the prospect of getting $6k in cash, cc is not an option, 14k miles from home with no local bank account. Yeah there are no easy answers to that dilemma.) Friday morning I paid All Cargo $891. Just a bit easier to swallow than $6k. By the time the truck shows up in Long Beach I’ll have earned enough money (assuming the job thing pans out) to pay cash for shipping and avoid the CC. That is a HUGE benefit since I wanted to do this trip debt free. I got close but not quite. Half the cost, ¼ the time, and it allowed me to spend some time in this wonderful city. Yeah I made the right choice to leave Ushuaia. Should have done it 2 weeks sooner.

Friday morning I was sitting in the office of All Cargo after paying the fees and listening to Matias talk to the port on the phone. I’d been there about an hour waiting for the official’s name and appointment to stuff the truck. ‘Stuff’ is the highly technical term they use for loading the container. Matias was speaking in his rapid business Spanish and somewhere in there I caught ‘at 2pm.’ An overwhelming sense of sadness and triumph set it. I fought hard not to tear up in front of 6 strangers on the 10th floor of 893 Rivadavia. I managed to maintain my stoic, hardass appearance. But inside the emotions were chaotic. The finality had finally set it. Oh beautiful sentence there. The breadth of my vocabulary is truly astounding isn’t it? The closure was now real. My trip was over. 10 years of planning over. Proud of the fact that I did it 7 years before my original goal of age 40. It was a nice quiet time to reflect upon my accomplishment. 20mins passed and it was back to the anything but quiet task at hand.

The task at hand? Drive through this nightmare, from a traffic and pedestrian standpoint, of a city to the port and get it loaded successfully. Considered paying a taxi to let me follow him through the confusion but I nutted up and did it solo. I made it. Ruby Claire is parked ever so politely inside her sealed container waiting to be loaded on Tuesday for her journey to Long Beach, California. Two minor fender benders, some small nagging mechanical issues but she made the 30k miles of abuse and stress pretty much unscathed. Just a hair shy of 196k miles on the odometer. Yep there is a reason I drive Land Cruisers.

This morning I woke up with nothing on the agenda. First time in many weeks. Instead of hitting snooze I turned off the alarm and went back to sleep. I rolled out of bed about 11 and spent the day wandering the city, taking pictures, laughing at some lady who asked me what my sign is, shopping for last minute souvenirs and ended up finishing my trip with 7 pairs of shoes instead of 6. Yes I am that big of a loser. I sat in the middle of the 22 lane street and watched people, for about 90mins just soaking it all in.

Tomorrow night I’m headed to the airport and will say goodbye to the Latin World. For the time being. if I’m lucky I’ll make both flights (flying standby here and atlanta) and be home by Monday before most of you read this post. In the morning however I’m hitting up the antiques market to find my ACA medal, track down another ice cream cone or two, and see if I can avoid getting lost within blocks of my hotel like happened Friday between paying and shipping. Ideally I’ll get a post in tomorrow before I fly out. For now I’ll throw in a few more pics and then I need sleep since it is 3 am.

Until then, Cheers or Take Care or Much Luck or Sincerely or Con Amor or Saludos or Chao or a word that signifies closure to this post. Oh and there is a ‘behind the scenes’ for Beverly Hills Cop 2 on tv right now. Damn I’m going to miss this place

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

I read the news today oh boy...

8:47am- I’m woken up by the people above me playing what I think is a cello. They were playing until 1 last night and then at it again this morning. I was up until 3:15 or so thus 8:47 is a bit early.

9:15am- My alarm goes off on the phone. I hit snooze.

9:25am- My alarm goes off on the phone. I hit snooze.

9:35am- My alarm goes off on the phone. I hit snooze. I realize that my hotel room doesn’t have a clock in it anywhere.

9:45am- My alarm goes off on the phone. I hit snooze.

9:55am- My alarm goes off on the phone. I hit snooze. Takes a minute to fall asleep as I try to reconcile the dream I just had about not being able to find my spindle kit to make a fire (yes starting a fire with no matches is possible) for the manager of the hotel.

10:05am- My alarm goes off on the phone. I hit snooze. Again try and figure out the fire thing for a second.

10:15am- My alarm goes off on the phone. I hit snooze.

10:16am- Finally get up.

10:18am- Email Natalia to find out if I have a shipping quote yet. Turn on the TV and settle in on ER. A show I never watched once until this trip. Not sure I’ll watch it when I get home but it’s in English.

10:22am- Open the HP Mobile Workstation, my Office Season 4 episodes 1-9 torrent is done. Only took 6 days. Episodes are all available online if you live in the states. They aren’t viewable down here so I have to go the BT route.

10:37am- Start converting the office .avi files to mpeg4 for the IPOD so I can watch them on the flight home.

10:53am- Got an email from Natalia. Still no quote.

11:04am- William Joseph Carroll sent me an email from his ‘work’ trip to Oregon. Pic of him with his 22lb 36in King Salmon from a trip on the river yesterday. Glad it was him and not me.

12:39pm- Office files were corrupt. 2.2gb and 6 days of downloading and no worky. Bummer. So I messed around with those for bit and no luck. So I started over with 8 individual torrents for each episode and we’ll see what happens. Gilmore Girls and Scrubs were decent though. Spent some time cleaning myself and other things you do in the bathroom including a good nail clipping. I’m dressed and headed out the door to see the city, get some food, take a few pics, get some sun on my Ushuaia-blanched head and do some good ole’ fashioned people watching.

12:57pm- Still here IM’ing the Trunk Monkey about the joys of Lasik recovery and Land Cruiser moderation.

1:24pm- The new Jack Johnson is playing in my cab on the way over to the Automovil Club Argentina office. Driver had no idea what he was listening to. Or I didn’t understand him when he answered my questions. I have some stickers from the ACA but want to track down one of these. They have an antiques market here in the city on Sunday. My flight is scheduled for Sunday night so I’m going to go see if I can track one down there.

1:42pm- I leave the ACA and take some pics of the nearby sculptures and plazas. I feel weird taking pics in crowded cities. Makes me feel touristy and at this point I feel like I’ve gone a step beyond a ‘tourist.’ Maybe not since I’m looking to buy antique souvenirs for my truck.

1:49pm- I get my buddy pass confirmation for my flight home. THANK YOU Barbara.

2:14pm- Wondering around Northern BA looking for a bite to eat. I wander into what I think is a mall looking for a food court and find an ice cream stand. Chocolate Chip and Swiss Chocolate in a waffle bowl for my lunch. Perfect.

2:45pm- The mall was actually a large 18 screen multiplex in a 200 year old renovated building. A movie was not on my agenda and even now not sure why I did it, but I was there, it felt right so in the theater I went. I decided on 21 since it’s in English and I’d heard a bit about it. I enjoyed it. But then again I’m easily amused by movies about people with badass math skills. Good Will Hunting, that Russell Crowe/Ron Howard movie I’m drawing a blank on, Pi. Numbers+me = total confusion. Previews for the movie? Run Fatboy Run, We Own the Night, King of the Streets, Ironman, Super Agent86, and Before the Devil Knows You’re Dead. Why does this matter? I have no idea but I was able to translate the titles from their Spanish Equivalent so there they are. I think I got them right. Coke, with ice, and Runts for snacks. Pineapple in the Runts down here.

4:49pm- A quote came in from Ushuaia. 22 days from the start of the process. Still no ship date though. Yeah I’m glad I came here. (see 6:17pm)

5:02pm- Andres was my cab driver on the way back from the north end of town. He talked the whole time like he thought I could understand him. I just said ‘oh si?’ a lot. Oh and threw out ‘en serio?’ once or twice.

5:18pm- I went shopping for toys. It’s J’s fault. He spotted these toy Land Cruisers when we were in Castro, Chile in the corner of some hole in the wall junk store. I’ve been searching every town since. I estimate 200 stores I’ve walked through. Nothing. If the stores I checked tonight didn’t have them none of them will. Bummer really. Thanks J’s for sending me on a scavenger hunt with no reward.

5:33pm- Back at the hotel. Settle in to do nothing. Okay to stop sweating and do some packing.

6:17pm- Quote came in from Natalia for shipping out of Buenos Aires. Less than 2 full business days since I started the process here. Headed down in the morning to pick it up and over to customs to start the paperwork of getting my truck out of here.

6:43pm- go to my truck grab my huge duffle bag, my ipod, two books and some other miscellany to get packed for the trip home.

7:14pm- lit up brickbreaker (video game on the blackberry) while getting rid of some of the sugar I’ve taken in today. Legs fell asleep from sitting on the throne for too long. Damn game.

7:28pm- browsed the internet for awhile. Land cruiser stuff. Ebay looking for ACA medals. Indiana Jones trailer etc.

8:10pm- went for a walk to find dinner. BA is a bit of an enigma. A quick overview reveals a city of wealth, healthy economy and cleanliness. Walking around at night that all changes. The shops in my neck of the woods put all their trash on the street corners each night and it is cleaned up by the sanitation crews. Filthy at night, sparking clean in the morning. However before they get clean up the piles are ransacked by the impoverished for anything they can use. I saw two young girls waist deep in trash, tonight, ripping open bags and sorting through the contents. Fairly sad.

8:58pm- I ended up at McDonald’s for dinner tonight. I don’t eat there in the states and didn’t really want it but sometimes I just don’t want to go through the 90 mins process of eating in Latin America just for a chicken sandwich. To be honest with you, sometimes eating alone, for that long is depressing. Last night I ate a pizza in a crowded joint while watching the local BA club dominate a club from VZ. It was fun and intense. But tonight I just knew I needed food and didn’t care what it was. I was more than happy to eat quick, and head back to my hotel where even watching dumb TV makes me feel less alone.

9:08pm- Done with my chicken sandwich, coke with ice again and fries. I ordered and ate in less time than it takes a waiter to even acknowledge your presence in a real restaurant. Oddly I enjoyed it.

10:08pm- David Archeleta rocked it on American Idol

10:14pm- grabbed a coke from fridge. Need to get some work done tonight.

10:23pm- Cracked open the laptop and finally caught up on some lingering emails from last week.

11:12pm- Finished this post as well as some cheesy movie on FX about the same time. Hopefully you enjoyed my day as much as I did.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

don't try to figure it out

Oh I forgot a few things in my last post so you get two today/tonight/this afternoon or whenever you read it.

Trying to apply North American logic proves frustrating and fruitless when difficult situations arise but in the past 48 hours I have had two that are just baffling to me.

Insurance is mandatory in Argentina for all vehicles.  I bought insurance in Coyhaique, Chile for liability only, that covered me for Chile, Bolivia, Arg, Uruguay, Brasil, Paraguay.  I paid $28 or so from a company call Mapfre.  Well it expired on Saturday. I drove Sunday without it and then spent 2 hours Monday morning buying new insurance.  (then wasted another 2 trying to scan my documents to email to the shipping agent here in BA)  So I go to ACA, the ARG version of AAA.  They can’t insure US vehicles.  They guide me to a Mapfre Agent in Bahia Blanca.  Mapfre Chile can insure US vehicles but Mapfre ARG can’t.  So he calls someone, gets a phone and fax for chile and says call them.  So I head back to the ACA office. They call 6! companies before they find one that will insure me.  So my logic tells me if Canada required someone to insure their car companies would be lining up to do it.  Not here. It’s the law and finable but no one will do it. So I head over to the company they found and I get a policy.  I ask how much it is for comprehensive, just in case, he tells me $2200.  I asked 4 times and made him write it down in pesos and dollars. Yes that number is right, $2200 for one month. Liability only ends up being only $70 but for Arg only.   Needless to say when I was in Chile I should have got 2 months. They require it but won’t sell it. Genius plan.

I arrive in Buenos Aires and go to the shipping company to work on that process.  They can’t load my truck into a container until I show proof I’m leaving the country. Makes sense right?  They don’t want me sticking around and stealing a job.  Oh wait how can I buy a ticket when I don’t know when I can put my truck into a container?  All Americans are rich you can buy a $2k flight then eat the ticket when we can’t get you out of here.  If I had believed what the guys and gal in Ushuaia told me I’d be out $36k in plane tickets.  I told them to get me a quote and assure me it is happening in a contract then I’ll book my flight.  After that I’ll find a place to print it off. Who uses paper tickets anymore?  Okay I could have made this rant a lot more humorous or cantankerous but it’s 1:30am and I’m tired. Just remember. LOGIC DOES NOT APPLY in South America.


you never know

First let me give you a rundown of the movies from last post.

Star Wars

Dead Poets Society




Cannonball Run

Tin Cup (seriously underrated sports movie)

Top Gun

Back to the Future

Shawshank Redemption

Can’t Hardly Wait

A Clockwork Orange

Elizabethtown (mediocre movie but an appropriate line)

Good Will Hunting

I enjoyed assembling the quotes but it took a long time. I could have butchered them all and just typed what I thought they were but wanted to be accurate. Then of course I butchered the final Star Wars line.

So, I am sitting in a hotel in Buenos Aires. The Apart Hotel Flamingo I believe it is called. My room is just a titch on the large side of normal. I asked for a single and I got 3 beds (1 king, two singles), a kitchen (the apart part) and a decent sized although poorly laid out bathroom. From the throne to lying in my bed is 31 steps. Yes I counted. More importantly that’s like 90 feet. I could park Ruby in here and still have plenty of room for 2 beds and the bathroom. It’s very odd but I like it and reasonably priced. I managed to fit into their parking garage by less than an inch. BA is not designed for tall Land Cruisers and on that note…

I have made a bad decision or two along the way (staying in Ushuaia for 3 weeks being one of them) and managed to luck my way into some very good experiences. I will have to say however that yesterday I made a decision that would pretty much assure my status as a genius. Not in the legimate IQ status but pretty damn clever. After the wise move to leave Ushuaia (and get more accomplished in 4 hours regarding shipping than I did in 15 days there) I followed it up with one that was even much more wiser. (why do I feel like I need to explain that is joke?) So as I was rolling north through the wind and desolation of Argentina I was unsure of the best way to approach the second largest city of my trip. I wanted to make it Sunday but it was just too far. The rumors and reputation of the southern Argentina winds are 100% true. At times 30mph and pushing my top heavy truck all over the road. It was very tedious driving and after back to back 16 hour days I was torn between staying an hour outside the city or coming into the city at night. The benefit of late night is little traffic. The downside? Hard to read signs, lost in the wrong neighborhood, hotels are full.

I came in last night and first thing that happened I got lost. The fault however was not mine but that of Lonely Planet. They had the right address for the hotel I wanted but it was wrong on the map. I found the map location quickly. Graffiti, abandoned buildings, empty trash filled streets. Awesome. I parked the truck and walked up to the corner to look around. A guy on the street says hey then the first thing out of his mouth. Your lights are very bright. Or some approximation thereof since I was confused at his greeting and didn’t fully understand his Spanish. I told him that yeah I know they are bright. After a few minutes I was in his little market using his phone to call the hotel. I was about 20 blocks away but they had a room. The shop owner couldn’t read so when I showed him my map we had to ask a patron to help us. Hey good thing they are people shopping at midnight. We found it on the map then I had 4 more people help explain how to get there. All were super friendly, complimentary of my truck and my trip, one even said he’d join me if I kept going.

Back into the city and I got lost. This time my fault. Missed my turn, got stuck in the middle of 9 de Julio (which is a 22 lane road) and couldn’t get out. So my 5 min drive took 20 mins. Finally I found the hotel and parked the truck. I spent most of the morning walking around town working on shipping and one thing dawned on me. This town would have destroyed me had I come in yesterday. Buses, taxis pedestrians, one way streets, alley ways passing as streets and did I mention a 22 lane road that I would have had to use and cross? It was hard enough to get across it on foot let alone in Ruby. So I am at the end of my trip (I hope for real this time) and I think I’ve learned a few things about getting around. You never know when your experience and judgment will kick in. Not driving at night is the standard tenet of Latin American travel but without question it was the right move yesterday. I’d still much rather prefer small towns and having spent 2 months in the sticks Buenos Aires was quite a shock but I made it into the city unscathed. I feel very safe walking around and enjoy the people I have met so far. Granted I am just here to get out of South America but the fact is I am glad I’m here and think I would have missed out had I shipped home from Ushuaia. I just wish I would have decided to come here two weeks ago. I have a special post planned for tomorrow. Be excited. Be very excited. Okay that might be an exaggeration. But I’m sort of giddy about the prospect.

(oh and some pics from the a few sunsets on the drive north, ushuaia, the flatness that is ALL of southeast argentina, enjoy)

Saturday, April 19, 2008

OK ESN:0-7341800

This thing might be getting a lot of use soon. I am lost (in a good way) in Bolivia, Chile, Argentina or Paraguay
Nearest Location: Uzcudun, Argentina
Distance: 4 km(s)
Time:04/20/2008 01:42:14 (GMT),-66.1391&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Thursday, April 17, 2008

This took much longer than I planned.

Yoda: Try not. Do, or do not, there is no try.

John Keating: They're not that different from you, are they? Same haircuts. Full of hormones, just like you. Invincible, just like you feel. The world is their oyster. They believe they're destined for great things, just like many of you, their eyes are full of hope, just like you. Did they wait until it was too late to make from their lives even one iota of what they were capable? Because, you see gentlemen, these boys are now fertilizing daffodils. But if you listen real close, you can hear them whisper their legacy to you. Go on, lean in. [the students lean in] Listen, you hear it? [whispers in a raspy voice] - - Carpe - - hear it? - - Carpe, carpe diem, seize the day boys, make your lives extraordinary.

Joe Hurley: I don't know. Not thinking about the past or the future. I don't know it's difficult to explain, maybe impossible.

David Labraccio: Yeah, dying is quite that way.

Nelson Wright: Today is a good day to die.

Lester Bangs: Aw, man. You made friends with them. See, friendship is the booze they feed you. They want you to get drunk on feeling like you belong.
William Miller: Well, it was fun.
Lester Bangs: They make you feel cool. And hey. I met you. You are not cool.
William Miller: I know. Even when I thought I was, I knew I wasn't.
Lester Bangs: That's because we're uncool. And while women will always be a problem for us, most of the great art in the world is about that very same problem. Good-looking people don't have any spine. Their art never lasts. They get the girls, but we're smarter.
William Miller: I can really see that now.
Lester Bangs: Yeah, great art is about conflict and pain and guilt and longing and love disguised as sex, and sex disguised as love... and let's face it, you got a big head start.
William Miller: I'm glad you were home.
Lester Bangs: I'm always home. I'm uncool.
William Miller: Me too!
Lester Bangs: The only true currency in this bankrupt world is what we share with someone else when we're uncool.
William Miller: I feel better.
Lester Bangs: My advice to you. I know you think those guys are your friends. You wanna be a true friend to them? Be honest, and unmerciful.

Stella: The world is what you make of it, friend. If it doesn't fit, you make alterations.
Paden: I'll drink to that.

Mel: How long before we stop?

Terry: Eight hours!

Mel: Da-D-Damn! I gotta go to the john!

Romeo: Then do it. Quit fucking around

Charlie: When I first met you, you were larger than life. Look at you. You're not going to be happy unless you're going Mach-2 with your hair on fire and you know it.

Marty: What about all that talk about screwing up future events? The space-time continuum?

Doc: Well, I figured, what the hell!

Red: Goddamn it, Andy, stop! Don't do that to yourself! Talking shitty pipedreams! Mexico's down there, and you're in here, and that's the way it is!

Andy: You're right. It's down there, and I'm in here. I guess it comes down to a simple choice, really. Get busy living or get busy dying.

(much later in the movie)

RED (Narrator): Get busy living or get busy dying. That is goddamn right.

Angel Stripper: Fate! There is such a thing as fate, but it only takes you so far. Then it's up to you to make it happen.

Alex: Initiative comes to thems that wait

Claire: I want you to get into the deep beautiful melancholy of everything that's happened.

Sean: Son of a bitch... He stole my line.

So I stole a bunch of lines from movies. Some good. Some bad. Some awful and obscure. (I would be beyond impressed if someone knew ALL of these WITHOUT the help of Basically I’ve lost my mind and would rather quote others than type myself. I’ve shaved my head again and am still rocking the Frenchman appearance if that is an indication of my normalcy. Tomorrow I’m cleaning the car, buying more car insurance since mine is expired, and heading north to Buenos Aires. I am done waiting for people to do their job. 3 weeks of waiting and still no quote thus I’m headed to a larger port. Over 2200 miles but I expect to arrive there Monday sometime. Some of you may be tempted to use the word ‘heroic’ right now about me for taking on such a task. Yeah let’s roll with that. It sounds good. The quotes above are relevant to my mindset, or continuing adventure or just a nice long distance inside joke with friends. I alternated colors to distinguish the movies.

These are not the droids you’re looking for.

move along,


Monday, April 14, 2008

Gallery Update

I forgot to mention last night that my Gallery has been update with every country but Mexico. Enjoy.


Sunday, April 13, 2008

still here

And what has the waiting done to me? Well apparently shaving my beard into some sort of French stash and goatee was a good idea. I broke out my puffy coat due to the cold. I had to change hotels. Watched 4 days of Masters and 3 Sox/Yanks games so the week of waiting wasn’t miserable. It’s raining and cold. Doesn’t seem to be changing. I have no hope it will happened this week either. If I don’t have a shipping date by Friday I’ll get on the road and head north. Still torn on Buenos Aires or Arica, Chile. One will be cheaper to ship the other will be cheaper to get to. $2.20 for gas in Argentina and $5 in Chile. I’d get to see some more of Argentina which would be nice but at the same time I’d rather not live off a credit card for an extended amount of time.

The waiting has really broken my spirit. And not just the waiting but the lack of control. I wrote a few weeks ago about how wonderful it has been to spend a portion of my life living decision by decision and doing what I want. Now I’m stuck here, going on two weeks, unable to do anything while I wait for others to do their job. It’s frustrating, it’s tiring and frankly it pisses me off. That was how I felt Tuesday when I got passed off from the guy who gave me hope last Friday to his little helper whom I sure will do nothing to get me home anytime soon. In the mean time a boat came and went and my truck is still outside filling up with water. So there have been no updates on my blog, I let emails sit for 8 days with no reply. The fact is I’ve been here and I’ve been broken. Two weeks ago I was sad that my trip was over. I didn’t want to be home. I wanted to keep going and see more of the world. The waiting, and sitting, complacency and lethargy have done one significant positive thing. Changed my mind.

Right now I’m excited to get home. I’m looking forward to being back in the desert, out on the golf course with my friends, sitting at the Training Table on Thursday for a nice long lunch talking Cruisers. All those things I missed, then forgot about, are becoming exciting for me again. Fountain drinks and water out of the tap. Long conversations. More than anything that is what I’m looking forward to. I had a cab driver who spoke English the other night. I think I scared him with how much talking I did. I’m not just excited for the talking part either. I can’t wait to have someone talk to me and I understand all the words. I love to drive. I love being behind the wheel. Right now I’d take a cramped window seat on a Delta flight over a 3k mile road trip to Buenos Aires in a heartbeat. I caught up on email tonight and got this attempt at a blog written. I hope to add some more this week and if the clouds ever rise above 1000 feet I’ll go get some pics of the snow and changing leaves. Until then enjoy the fact that I have a mustache right now.

Monday, April 7, 2008

i'm just typing

Yep. Nothing more to it than that.


Lucila- Monday afternoon, “yeah it’s not a problem. We can get you out of here, we do it all the time.”

Lucila- Friday afternoon, “I’ve never done this before, there are other agents in town you should go see who do it a lot.”


Yeah perfect timing there. Thanks for helping me kill a week in Ushuaia. She did send me to Marcelo who I am much more confident in and will  no doubt get me on a boat.  Lucila was very nice and tried hard though. Could have saved a ton of time and stress by giving me Marcelo’s info last Monday.


So yep, no Fenway Park. I’m still in Ushuaia. Going on 9 days now.  Once in a lifetime chance missed but so was this trip so I’m not going to complain too much.


I had the hiccoughs.  Those who don’t know me personally are asking themselves. “who cares?” those who do know me personally are laughing pretty hard right now since you know that I had them for 3 days and early on reached the exasperation point and was sighing after everyone.  Three days of acid, burping and the inability to eat in public without being embarrassed.  Do NOT send your secret tricks for getting rid of them. I’ve tried them all and believe me NONE work. 


It snowed in the mountains here and is down in the low 30s tonight I think. Getting cold. Still no southern lights though but I’ll keep wandering at night hoping.


I’m losing my hotel room in 2 more days so I REALLY hope to be on a plane. Oh and it’s Masters weekend which is even a better reason to be on a plane so I can enjoy the best 6 hours of TV all year on Sunday.


The leaves are changing.  Beachwood turns a very burnt orange color.  Some link the name Tierra del Fuego to this very phenomenon. 


Kansas won in OT.  Beauty of technology.  Props to Mr. Brian Hanson for letting me log into his Slingbox.


I was mad last Friday about not making it to Fenway for the ring ceremony.  Then I got over it. Saturday morning I was fine. I’ve accepted the fact that nothing will happen quickly getting my truck home.  I need to figure out my ship date so I can get flights reserved because the last minute flights from Ushuaia to SLC are PRICEY.


I’m dying to play golf. I think I’ll do it tomorrow. Southern most course in the world. Oh and I’ve played the Northern most in the western hemisphere in Fairbanks, AK.  Yep, I’m a dork.


There are things in South America that remind me of the US in 1998. Main street Ushuaia at 1am is one of those things. Whether it be a Peugeot 206, Chevy Astra, Ford KA, Fiat Clio or any other 2 door hatchback the Fueginos (as they are called) think it is still cool to cruise the drag with the over the top bass rattling their windows and in sync pulsating neon lights under their car.   They haven’t caught up to the bumble bee exhaust craze of the rice rockets of 2002 yet but they have all figured out a huge hole in, or completely missing exhaust makes just as much noise. 

have I talked about how LOUD South America is?  I don’t recall if I have.  The people, the cars, the tv, the garbage trucks, the police cars, everything is loud.  Somehow louder than ‘normal.’ It’s hard to ever find quiet because there is none.  Argentina compounds the problematic search for solace in that the people never sleep. Ever. Doesn’t matter the day of the week. They are awake 24 hours a day. Really it’s true. 3-7 pm is the only time there are not dozens of people on the street or in the room next to yours talking loudly.  It’s not just a southern phenomenon. When justin and I rolled into Formosa at 4am the streets were teeming with people. Old young, doesn’t matter. No one here sleeps.  I think they are taking the Cosmo Kramer/DaVinci approach and sleeping 1 hours out of every 6.  Right now at 2 am there are 5 girls walking down the street outside jabbering and sending texts. It’s so confusing and for a light sleeper it’s misery. I wake up every 45 mins by some interruption or another.


My truck has been parked on the street for 8 days and no issue. I like Ushuaia. Safe town. 


I am packed and ready to go. I was so hopeful for my trip home yesterday I pulled almost everything out of my car and packed it for the flight.  The Vokey 56 degree stays with the car.  Bummer. I have to buy a new wedge when I get home. No big deal if you’re normal but for neurotic people like me that means I have to buy 3 new wedges; 52, 56, 60 because you need consistent spin and groove wear on all 3 clubs.  “just wait” you say?  They are saying the truck might take 2  months to get home.  A lot of golf to be played between now and then.


Okay no more typing. Goodnight. Or morning. Or afternoon as it were.



Thursday, April 3, 2008

the end end.

Yesterday I took a drive. I had to empty the tank so I could use the gas on that roof rack before the truck goes in a container.  More importantly I had to go the end of the road.  I rambled about how my arrival in Ushuaia was anything but triumphant.  It got me thinking a bit.  Ushuaia was the destination but it wasn’t the town itself. It was the town’s location.  But the location didn’t sink in until yesterday.  75 miles or so southeast of here I found the end of the road.  I love to drive. I think that is obvious and goes without saying since I’m at almost 28k miles in 5 months.  The end of the Dalton Highway in Deadhorse AK and the end of Arg Ruta J are the two farthest points apart from each other in the western hemisphere and now I’ve driven to both.   (some people know that Inuvik NWT Canada is farther north than Deadhorse but because of the east/west travel Deadhorse is the longest distance from Ushuaia via road)


So yesterday about 2pm I the afternoon I arrived at the end of the road.  Then the emotion and reality set in. I was there. I was done. My only choice was to turn around. It would have been poetic to have the road just end with a sign.  But nope. There was a gov’t radio tower and house with an affable yet tacit gentlemen with very mean dogs making the pic taking iffy and sort of ruining the aesthetic.  But the emotions were very true.  And what  were the emotions?  Honestly a bit overwhelming.  Pure satisfaction.  Excitement.  No tear. No sadness. Just a sense of accomplishment followed by a large void of loss and lost.  The dream is over, the planning and preparation, the staring at maps and looking at websites for the last decade is now fulfilled. What next? What is next on the horizon. I have no plans.  I can still live moment to moment and day to day because there are no long term goals. (although the mind has been scheming since yesterday about 5pm) So what I am doing now I’m sitting here watching Gilmore Girls and typing a post since it is raining again and my windshield is leaking.  I’m going to go start smacking skulls and get my truck in a container by tomorrow (I need this to happen since you can only live in a hotel room for so long) so I can get on a plane and go watch the Sox get their World Series rings. But just a bit more about the town of Ushuaia.


I think I may have come across as disenchanted with the town the other day. The exact opposite is the truth. I really like this town.  It’s location was the destination but the town itself has a lot offer.  It offers something far different to me than to most of you however. This town is very familiar to me.  It lies rather sinuously between the placid Beagle Channel and the glacier covered Darwin Mountains.  Aside from all the Spanish being spoken this town would not be out of place in Southeast Alaska.  The main drag of tourist shops and restaurants, the port and sightseeing cruises, the wet and washboard roads are all reminiscent of every seaside tourist town I know.  Having lived in Sitka and Juneau this town feels comfortable to me. Like home.  It has a lot of things I know and therefore the stress of waiting here is more frustration of being out of control of the situation and not one of discomforting surroundings.  Even the Spanish isn’t that bad. The three and half weeks with justin and j really helped my comprehension. I’ve found that I’m pretty damn good at understanding people now.  But somewhere I’ve forgotten how to speak it.  I spend a lot of time eavesdropping over dinner and I’m doing pretty good.


Four dinners in this town. Three at parillas the other at a pizza joint.  I’m not dying to eat red meat but if you could go to Morton’s or Ruth’s Chris and pay Sizzler prices would you pass it up?  Yeah I didn’t think so. The ricotta, basil and walnut ravioli I had on my off night was pretty damn good though.  All in all I like it here.  Great food and the best pananderia of the trip.  Now if I can just find an available 20ft standard height container heading to the city they call Long Beach I’d be set.  Hope to use my connection to work some more on the gallery tonight.  I’ll let you know.


Wednesday, April 2, 2008

OK ESN:0-7341800

If you ever decide to get in your car and start driving south. the link below is as far as you can go. the end of the road.

This thing might be getting a lot of use soon. I am lost (in a good way) in Bolivia, Chile, Argentina or Paraguay
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:04/02/2008 18:16:09 (GMT),-66.7447&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

hotel montreal redux

Ushuaia, Arg is a grand town. I’ve seen all of it. Four times. The doldrums of shipping are upon me once again. Instead of the grand and lovely ant infested Hotel Montreal of Panama City this time I’m in Hosteria Alakfula or something like that. The difference is I like this hotel. The people are super nice and I’m dining in a way that would send a vegan into therapy. However I am still slipping into a funk. The joy of reaching my destination and the excitement of seeing my friends and family again is fleeting.

I wake up check my email. I walk down to the panaderia and get some breakfast. Come back check my email again. IM friends at the old job. I then go for a nice long walk since I haven’t fully fixed my truck yet. Then I come back to check my email and then go get ice cream. Then I walk some more, today I took a nap, and look for souvenirs even though I’m fully stocked I think. I go get laundry or an Ushuaia stamp in my passport then I watch tv. Maybe IM friends, check my favorite message boards then I go for another walk. By now the sun is down and the beef is being cooked on the spits at the Parillas so I choose one of the 30 and eat ribs, steak, chicken, sausage roasting right in the front of the restaurant. Two nights ago I was right by the table where the cut the meat, or I should say chop it and it was fun to watch the patrons flinch at the flying juices. Then I get more ice cream and come back here.

I’m currently trying to get out of Ushuaia, ARG or Punta, Arenas, Chile. My first email regarding shipping was sent March 12th. Yep that’s right over 3 weeks ago and I still don’t have a quote, a shipping date or destination port. It’s a grand old time and has nothing but positive effects on the psyche to sit and wait while the excitement of attaining a decade old goal is killed by losing control of your situation. The other day I posted about how amazing it was to have a life of total freedom. Well now I have none as I sit here and wait. So I consume massive amounts of cow product and oh how wonderful it is sitting in my belly and I wait. And I check email and I wait. Then I walk and I wait. Meanwhile flights are going up in price and Fenway Opening day is drawing close. I’d just be happy if they told me I had to drive 4k miles to Santiago to meet a boat. At least then I would feel like something had been accomplished. But no I’m sitting here waiting. The waiting would be fine if I knew I was here for 5 days, or 10 days. But the fact is I might have to get in the car and leave for Punta Arenas as early as tomorrow. So it’s not like I can just go hop on an all day sight seeing cruise or go hiking. I'm stuck. So there you go. Ushuaia, Argentina, a town you can see 4 times in 3 days. It is pretty though. and has great food. The jokers in Panama need to come down here and take a cooking lesson or two.